The Optimized 4x4 Power-Endurance Protocol
August 30, 2023
The bouldering 4x4 protocol is a widely utilized method of training climbers’ use to boost their power endurance. In this article I will highlight some of the pitfalls that lie within the standard 4x4 workout. Then give my unique “spin”on this workout, to help optimize the potential benefit climbers (of all levels) could receive from performing my version of this protocol.
The standard 4x4 protocol consists of choosing a difficult, but sub-limit boulder and repeating it four times with little rest. Then taking a short break before repeating this process for a few sets. The point of doing 4x4’s is to train your anaerobic capacity. To do this optimally, every time you pull on the wall (to complete a boulder) your effort should be 90-100 percent of your maximum.
There are two main pitfalls with climbing the same boulder four times (in the standard 4x4 protocol). If you choose a boulder that is too close to your limit, then by rounds three and four you will be too fatigued to send. On the contrary, if you choose a boulder that you will be able to send your fourth time, then the set is “too easy” (because the first two rounds are quite manageable). Either way, this is ineffective training of your anaerobic capacity because you need sustained high-intensity bouts of effort (within the confines of the workout) in order to effectively work this energy system.
To get “more” out of this workout, my spin is choosing two boulders to climb every set. The first boulder should be just under your limit (but high percentage enough) that it can confidently be sent twice with relatively no rest. Then after the first two rounds, a second boulder is selected—this one being slightly easier than the first. Do this boulder two times. Now it is more likely you have raised the intensity of climbing to 90-100 percent each time you have climbed during the 4x4s. Thus maximizing the possible gains obtained from this workout.
If you are an advanced climber you may want to program this workout where you choose four different climbs to do per set (so 4 unique boulders equals 1 set X 3-4 total sets). Choose the four climbs specifically so each climb wanes just enough for you to be trying near 100 percent (and you send or get close to sending). To up the ante, you could wear a weight vest during the 4x4’s! Because of the added weight, you will choose boulders that are more “high percentage” sends because in order to send the climbs with added weight the boulders will not be intricate V-double digit boulders. (unless you are Adam Ondra lol)
Speaking of Adam Ondra, he made a video discussing the way he does 4x4’s. If you are an advanced climber it may be worth checking out! Here is the link!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyPA0AH8hG0&t=4s
Final Thoughts:
I believe that the 4x4’s are an easy way to implement some form of climbing-specific power-endurance training in your climbing training regime (especially if you are just getting into climbing training). If done right, the bouldering 4x4’s can be effective power-endurance training for both boulders and sport climbers of all levels. However, there are numerous other effective power-endurance protocols that can be equally, or more,` effective than the 4x4’s—which can be swapped throughout a long-term training cycle. Stay tuned for future articles discussing these!
Want more guidance with your climbing training and/or want an expert’s opinion on the way to attack training for your upcoming climbing goals? You can sign up for a climbing training/performance consultation with me below!
Book a Training Consult
Schedule a 1 hour consultation, also message me directly if you are interested in more in-depth work/personalized training plans!
Let’s help you achieve your climbing goals, reserve a spot now!
Aerobic Capacity in Power-Endurance Climbs
March 28, 2023
I recently sent “Zoolander” (5.14d), an overhanging power-endurance crimpfest, at the Red River Gorge. I belayed Alex Megos when he did the first ascent in the fall of 2019. Since then, Daniel Woods and Yannick Flohé have made the only repeats, and now me. Zoolander is a short, savage climb with 21 moves and no rests. It has difficult boulder problems at the beginning and end, so climbing fast is essential. I sprinted up the route in just under two minutes.
After the send, I was surprised that I possessed the power to pull through the V10 crux at the end of the climb. After almost two minutes of strenuous climbing, how did I still have enough power reserve left to do the final boulder protecting the chains? The answer lies within the bioenergetic systems that produce ATP in the hard-working arm and finger flexor muscles.
While climbing an all-out route (like Zoolander), it’s the anaerobic system that dominates the ATP production during the first minute (assuming no rests). Then, during the second minute of climbing, your aerobic system increasingly takes over, the telltale being a significant drop off in power output. Note that by itself the aerobic energy system can only yield about one-third of your maximum power. But, this difficult sequence surely required more than one-third of my full power?
I knew that my aerobic system was still not fully at play (like it should be if you were to look at a graph of when/where the anaerobic & aerobic energy systems eclipse themselves during activity)
With a strong aerobic system (that works to produce the minority of ATP during the first minute of activity, and takes over during the second minute) bearing a higher percentage of the ATP production, allows athletes to conserve the anaerobic system during hard power endurance climbs that take about 2 minutes to complete.
So it was my aerobic system that indirectly helped me send a climb which, at face value, is more of an “an-cap” beast!
Point to take away:
Although the main tenet of short and powerful climbs is being strong enough to pull the sequences (which means a superb anaerobic system is necessary), your aerobic system can be utilized to bear a higher percentage of the load during the two minutes of climbing. Therefore, a strong aerobic system will allow for less energy production burden placed on the anaerobic system during near limit movement—your finite “anaerobic reserve” will last longer, thus conserving power for hard sequences higher up the route.
Attacking My Climbing Antistyle
Feb 13, 2023
One of the best ways to ensure long term growth as an athlete, regardless of sport, is improving weaknesses. Especially if an athlete is becoming more advanced— the ROI of time invested in improving aspects that they are already proficient will be less than that of their weaknesses. Regarding climbing, the weaknesses within your game are labeled as your “antistyle”. In this article, I will focus on my personal experience projecting near limit climbs of my antistyle. If you share my antistyle then you could use my experience to help attack shared weaknesses. If you do not share mine, then you can take my strategies to form your own interpretation during your quest to strengthening your own weaknesses!
My climbing antistyle is long resistant routes where you largely rely on the aerobic system to provide sustainable energy to get you to the chains (especially on hard routes where there aren't sufficient rest positions). Historically I have shied away from hard routes of this domain because it could possibly take twice as much effort/time to send than a route of the same grade that is, let’s say, short and power endurance in nature.
This reluctance is derived from my youth as a multi-sport athlete. With a short spring and summer climbing season most of my life, I typically only chose projects that were “my style”— always shying away from the routes that were intimidating in nature (my antistyle). Although I had great success, I had large gaps in my overall climbing ability, and hated that. So, during the last couple years, being a full-time climber, I bit the bullet and started to slowly attack my weakness.
I kept my training regime essentially the same (while always striving to raise the intensity of the training itself as I grew stronger) but the significant change occurred in the projects I chose. About 70 percent of the outdoor sport projects I chose in the last 18 months were ones that stressed this antistyle of long resistant routes. The remaining 30 percent of projects I chose were of “my style” because I found it important to have intermediate (quick) successes during this extended period devoted to improving a weakness.
This effort was more than just physical, as it largely tested my patience and mental fortitude. Struggling to send routes of grade that I could do in a few sessions is somewhat of a personal ego check. A great example of this was my effort on “Smoke Wagon” (9a). I have sent 9a climbs in as little as a few sessions, however, this climb was my antistyle, so it took weeks of effort to send. Climbs like Smoke Wagon forced me to face my weaknesses head on. Although it was tough, after a year of trying to improve this weakness, I feel almost as capable on routes of my antistyle as I do routes of “my style”.
The downstream effects from improving your proficiency on antistyle climbs will only be positive. For everyone, this will lead to a significant increase in the number of routes and areas you can perform at a high level at. For me, this new found base of endurance proficiency gives me a HUGE aerobic base to build next level strength onto. Which will allow me to make my endurance base even larger, so I can pursue more difficult and complex climbs in the future!
If you see yourself in me, I recommend you begin working on the aspects of climbing you are less proficient in. Contemplate applying the 70/30 protocol in your projecting for a season or two. Over time, with the right guidance and effort, these weaknesses will become tools you can utilize to send bigger and harder climbs!
H.I.I.T Running Protocol For Climbers
Jan 30, 2023
There is sufficient evidence to support that high intensity endurance interval training boosts VO2max and potential for maximum cardiac output greater than lactate threshold training (long distance running) and the workout can be completed in 1/3 the time! Therefore, a HIIT protocol could be a perfect workout for people with inability to fit “hour long” runs in their work/climbing schedule. As well as, the people who genuinely dislike long distance running (like me)!
Here is an excerpt/link to the conclusion of a study where cardiovascular adaptations where compared between groups of people put on an 8 week program of long distance and HIIT running protocols.
Based on these findings, the protocol I recommend for climbers who strive to supplement their climbing training with running is with a H.I.I.T protocol. Which is as follows:
Begin with a 5 minute warmup:
1' walking
1' jogging (50% of you maximum sprint speed)
1' walking
1' jogging (60% of your maximum sprint sprint speed)
1' walking
30/30 HIIT Workout:
30’’ sprint, 30’’ walking
30’’ sprint, 30’’ walking
30’’ sprint, 30’’ walking
30’’ sprint, 30’’ walking
30’’ sprint, 30’’ walking
30’’ sprint
Walk for 2 minutes and repeat once more!
Notes: Just because you are an exceptional runner does not mean you will have “Ondra” level endurance. Climbing specific research suggests that the cardiovascular demands of high end sport climbing are nuanced and somewhat specific to the aerobic/anaerobic capacity of the climbing muscles. So, an elite level (running) VO2max and low resting heart rate do not necessarily equate to elite climbing performance. That being said, being a conditioned runner could only help your climbing performance and optimize the efficiency of recovery on and off the wall!
Here are two more links, consider reviewing if you want to learn more about the effects of running on climbing performance:
Strengthening Pulling Muscles for Grip Strength Gains
Jan 23, 2023
When contemplating how to increase grip strength, most climbers envision doing finger curls, crimp blocks, or dead hangs on a hangboard. While all these exercises are effective at increasing grip strength, I believe people are missing a huge link during their quest of developing stronger fingers. The missing link being pulling strength.
If you were to look at the biomechanics of a person pulling down on an edge (while they are hangboarding or climbing) the muscles attached to the scapula, lats, posterior deltoid, and triceps are contributing much of the force required to hold the body in position or orient it upward. A highly effective way to increase the strength of these muscles is through pulling exercises that target said muscles without a limiting factor such as a small edge. This can be accomplished in the form of a bodyweight pull-up regime (for beginner climbers) or a weighted regime (for intermediate and advanced climbers). Possessing stronger pulling muscles will allow climbers to be more effective at maintaining scapular engagement while pulling on small edges. Which is very important regarding injury prevention and allowing the body to access its full-strength potential!
The protocol I recommend incorporating into your climbing training, to increase pulling strength, is a 5x5 pull-up protocol (at body weight or with added weight). If done with added weight, the protocol should be executed by adding weight at 60-80 percent of your one rep max weighted pull up. After doing this regime for a few weeks, you will notice a significant increase in your pulling power and shoulder stability. Which will allow a greater potential for finger strength gains over the course of your climbing career!
Final note… Regarding programming, if you are already doing a hangboard training routine, don’t do weighted pull-ups before hangboarding! Do this protocol after your hangboard workout, ideally during a second session later in the day or a session the following day. Fresh muscles are key for an effective hangboard workout and prevention of injury.
For an in-depth description of the 5x5 pull-up protocol, watch this tutorial I made of the workout!
How Strength Training Increases Endurance
Jan 11, 2023
After pumping out on a project a common thought crossing many climbers’ minds is that they need more endurance to send the route. Although this is true, the pathway to increased endurance may not be as simple as increasing your aerobic capacity with high volumes of climbing.
While exercising, the body uses three different energy pathways to generate ATP for muscle function. The three energy pathways are the anaerobic alactic, anaerobic lactic, and aerobic energy system. These systems dominate ATP production in altering capacities throughout the duration of exercise depending on the intensity and time elapsed during the overall physical endeavor.
Without making this article an exercise physiology lecture, I want to briefly outline the three energy systems and their tenets. The anaerobic alactic energy system utilizes stored Creatine Phosphate to generate ATP providing energy for brief, maximal efforts within a 10 second threshold. The anaerobic lactic system utilizes stored glycogen to generate ATP which provides energy for high intensity bouts between 15 seconds and 1 minute. The aerobic system provides long lasting generation of ATP through an oxidative pathway for low intensity physical efforts lasting minutes to hours.
With this understanding of energy systems, we know doing a long, continuous, sport climb that takes 5, 10, or even 15 minutes to complete, the climbing muscles are predominantly utilizing ATP created through the aerobic system (although crux sequences are surely powered by the anaerobic energy systems). Over this extended time frame muscles can only continue to function if they receive a steady flow of oxygenated blood. Therefore, the intensity of muscle contractions needs to be reduced, since forceful contractions occlude blood flow through the working muscles. In fact, research reveals the aerobic system can only support sustained exercise at about 1/3 of a person’s peak power output! Therefore, it is vital for a sport climber to commit to increasing their max level of strength, over time, if they want to achieve greater endurance climbing at higher power outputs.
A new level of climbing-specific maximum strength will allow climbers to raise the bar for the minimum level of intensity needed to keep blood circulating through the muscle during sub maximal contraction. To put it simply, if you take two sport climbers, one who can boulder V5 and one who can climb V10, and ask them both to climb V4 moves until failure, which one will be able to pull V4 moves longer? The V10 climber, of course.
Finally, a side noteworth discussing is that enduance training will enhance the body's cardiovascular system, cell plasma mitochondrial density, and capillary bed density. (Which all promote the ability to climb harder for longer) Although important, these micro adaptations are not the end all be all for long term fitness gains for a seasoned sport climber.
With this information hit the gym! Focus on getting stronger (in addition to building aerobic power) and you will finally get through the redpoint crux you have been falling at season after season!